By
AFP
Revealed
February 5, 2025
Recovering South Korean shopaholic-turned-climate activist Lee So-yeon used to purchase new garments virtually every day — till a $1.50 winter coat triggered an awakening that stopped her procuring fully.
South Korean local weather activist Lee So-yeon, who has not purchased any new garments for the previous six years and now has a wardrobe consisting of used gadgets that she acquired from family and friends – Pictures: Anthony Wallace/AFP
Whereas trying on the ultra-cheap padded jacket at an H&M store in the USA, the place she was working on the time, Lee requested herself how any merchandise of clothes may very well be bought so cheaply.
The 30-year-old launched into a deep dive into quick vogue manufacturing strategies and was horrified on the human, social and environmental toll hyperconsumerism is having on the planet — and on the psychological well being of girls who make and purchase low cost garments.
“I used to buy one new outfit each (working) day of the week,” Lee informed AFP, including that every merchandise from main excessive avenue retailers would usually price lower than a greenback.
However the purpose the garments are so low cost, Lee realized, is as a result of the ladies who sew for firms are paid little, whereas the enterprise mannequin itself is inflicting important environmental hurt.
Lee stopped shopping for any new garments — and has not bought a single quick vogue garment since her epiphany round six years in the past.
Her rather more compact wardrobe consists of used gadgets that she acquired from family and friends, together with a classic leather-based jacket that when belonged to her mom.
Not like quick vogue gadgets, which are sometimes designed to be thrown away after just some wears, each bit is irreplaceable as a result of it carries a novel story and historical past, she mentioned.
“Ultimately, the most eco-friendly clothes are the ones already in your wardrobe,” mentioned Lee.
Break the cycle
Lee now organises clothes swaps together with her family and friends, and has written a guide to advertise the concept of valuing clothes for “the story behind it,” fairly than chasing ephemeral developments.
She is a part of a small however rising international motion searching for to advertise second-hand clothes and assist folks — particularly girls — choose out of the cycle of over-consumption.
The app Fortunate Sweater offers a platform for customers to commerce gadgets from their closets with one another, focussing on sustainable manufacturers, founder Tanya Dastyar informed AFP.
“We’re programmed to believe the only way to express my fashion or show that I’m beautiful or trendy… is new outfits,” Dastyar mentioned.
“But you can still be fashionable and feel good and look great and not have to do that,” she mentioned, including that though buying and selling garments didn’t have the identical fast dopamine hit as making a fast-fashion buy, it was way more rewarding over time.
The app’s rising uptake signifies that persons are hungry to shift their relationship with clothes and consumerism, she mentioned.
Folks realise: “I don’t have to follow trends and I can just dress in a way that feels comfortable to me,” she mentioned. “Is that like a mass market thing? No. But do I feel like it can be a movement? Yes.”
For Lee, breaking the cycle of low cost clothes consumption helped her enhance her psychological well being.
As a young person, she would fear about what to put on on college journeys — when uniforms weren’t required — at the very least a month upfront and would buy groceries to ease her fears.
“I felt a lot of pressure about how others would see me,” she informed AFP.
However studying about Bangladesh’s 2013 Rana Plaza tragedy — one of many world’s worst industrial disasters that killed greater than 1,130 garment manufacturing unit employees, most of them younger girls — was a turning level.
The manufacturing unit employees died making garments for “women like me”, Lee mentioned.
No second-hand?
The worldwide vogue trade is likely one of the most polluting, accounting for as much as 10 p.c of greenhouse gasoline emissions, based on World Financial institution estimates.
Most fashionable garments are made from artificial supplies like nylon and polyester, that are primarily plastic and don’t biodegrade in landfills, trade knowledge reveals.
Protecting garments out of landfills might help, however in South Korea, many nonetheless keep away from used clothes, mentioned Kim Dong-hyun, who runs a used clothes export manufacturing unit.
“People often don’t look favourably on someone wearing used clothes because they are seen as unwanted items,” Kim informed AFP, noting he has discovered soiled diapers and meals waste within the assortment bins.
South Korea is the fifth largest exporter of used clothes on the planet — and activists say many clothes are primarily dumped in growing international locations, which lack the capability to course of them.
At Kim’s second-hand clothes manufacturing unit in Paju, outdoors Seoul, a mechanical claw categorised piles of used garments to be exported abroad.
“Many people treat the clothing collection bin as just a trash can,” Kim mentioned.
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